PAMPLONA TO ZUBIRI and back – 33 miles
25.9.22 – Having spent a night in the camper at one of the Aires in Pamplona (10€) we set off to cycle along the many city cycle routes heading in the direction of where we left off two days ago near Zubiri. The cycle routes took us through parks adjacent to the river, Rio Arga, in Pamplona where the locals were doing their Sunday morning rituals: cycling, jogging, teaching children to ride bikes, and the most popular activity of all, promenading whilst chatting to friends. This was in sharp contrast to our return along the same route mid-afternoon when the cycle routes and recreation areas were deserted; it felt like we were committing a sin, ‘thou shalt not go outside on Sunday afternoons’.
Our cycle route took us along the Camino which was mostly paved, but there was a section which was narrow and rocky, and we were on the contraflow of walking pilgrims. As this meant dismounting and walking rather than cycling, we decided to take a detour away from the Path and headed into the hills.
Although our cycle map indicated that this was a cycle route to where we were going, the path soon became impassable and when we reached a locked gate with a farmer waving furiously at us and gabbling in the Basque language, we decided to head back to the Camino. But not before we had stopped at a suitable bench for our picnic in the village of Ilurdotz, where time stood still and three bored teenage girls whiled away the hours on village’s the main attraction, two swings. We were glad not to have spent our youth in such an out of the way place.
Despite being a dead-end street, literally, the surrounding scenery was breathtaking, valleys overflowing with trees, their leaves turning autumnal shades of orange, red, rust and more shades of green than on a Dulux colour chart. Through the crisp sunny air the sound of cow bells chimed in the distance. By chance I had my hair in Heidi plaits today.
Back on the Camino route we got a chance to exchange some words with fellow peregrinos, Gary and Jane from Idaho, also in their 60s, paused long enough for us to take photos of his Ironman and Norseman tattoos. We also met single female pilgrims and groups of men, mostly in the 55-75 age group.
After cycling past the huge dusty magnesite factory with its tall brick chimney, we arrived in the village of Zubiri, where we were greeted by the sound of a jazz trio playing in a cafe. As we listened, a dog brought us a stick to throw and then barked next to the fountain until we pressed it for him to get a drink.
After taking photos of the medieval bridge over the Rio Arga we jumped on our bikes and sped off back to Pamplona to walk Jess and then walk into the city to get our Camino passports stamped.
A great day!