22 miles east of Jerez de la Frontera is Arcos de la Frontera, the start of our exploration of the Pueblos Blancos – White Villages. It’s a hilltop town with a castle sitting sentinel at the top of a craggy outcrop with cliffs of 150 metres beneath, where a variety of birds nest safely in the fractures and pockets of the sandstone. Most of the buildings are painted white and the narrow alleyways create a labyrinth of passages for pedestrians, scooters and brave car drivers.
Dad gave us a great tip before we left – choose the fanciest place with a view for coffee, it’s usually good coffee, generally no dearer than anywhere else and the loos are clean. He should know, he’s had 93 years experience.
